When you catch yourself spending more time indulging in
nostalgia than dreaming of the future you know you are getting old. I guess I’m
getting old. Childhood memories, snapshots of places and people long gone, seem
to creep up out of nowhere. My parents were the Partition generation i.e. they
were witness to the excitement as well as the ensuing misery as people
migrated, got killed and separated from their loved ones. My mom lost everything
- her father, her property, her childhood, her joy, so it is not strange that
she would spend the rest of her life looking back, saddened by the turn of
events and what could have been. As a reaction to her attachment to the past I
lived my life with one hand on the delete button. A lot has happened in my life
but I really don’t remember things with clarity, I have always looked ahead. So
it is doubly strange that suddenly I have become nostalgic.
I belong to a generation that straddles two completely
different eras. My early childhood was spent in a time when Karachi was still carrying
the vivid impressions of the ‘Raj’, where things were built to last a 100 years
and where change occurred infrequently. My adult life has been part of the IT
revolution where each day brings a life changing innovation. Perhaps that is
why even my earliest memories seem to be like old black and white photographs –
slightly faded and tinged with sepia.
Karachi was such a different city back then. One of its
most defining features was the tram service which ran right down the middle of
the roads of Saddar and M.A Jinnah road
(or Bunder road as it was known then). I didn’t see the trams run for very long
as their era was almost at an end by the time I was old enough to notice them.
I remember people getting off and on these trams as they slowly made their way
up and down and most vividly I remember the clanging of the brass bells as they
warned people to get out of their path. The city was filled with the sound of
bells and occasional horns rather than the pressure horns of the public
transport which took its place. Where Gul Plaza now stands on M.A Jinnah road was
the central depot of the trams or Tram Godhi as it was locally known. It was a humungous
structure with corrugated metal sheets as roofing and though it was no more
than a very big shed, it was still architecturally more pleasing to the eye
than the ugly monstrosity that has taken its place.
The 60’s and 70’s saw an explosion of property
development where beautiful building were torn down and replaced by eye sores
which as time passed by became more than just sores – they became puss infected
wounds which unfortunately we have no choice but to suffer each day. The area
of Soldier Bazaar had grand stone bungalows, each of which had large gardens
filled with ‘peepal’ and banyan trees. In fact these trees were all over Karachi and perhaps the best known characteristic of the city. As we started
tearing down the structures we also cut off all the trees barring a few that
remained on M.A Jinnah road, and the task of tearing down the remaining ones
has been taken up by nature through gale force winds during the monsoon season.
We are a nation which is addicted to shortcuts and quick profits, therefore no
one ever bothered to plant new peepal or banyan trees since they take a very long
time to grow. During the 90’s we started to wake up to the importance of trees for the environment and massive plantation
drives were undertaken. Karachi now had little space and no patience to allow
these trees to take roots, so instead of these slow growing trees we saw hundreds
of eucalyptus trees being planted, hence
changing the character of Karachi once and for all. The oases of shades in a
concrete desert were no more.
Of course most people will wonder why I am not
reminiscing about the peace, and tolerance of the city. I too miss those
qualities of the city but then the city itself has gone through a physical
metamorphosis or I daresay, mutation. And this new city has a personality
befitting its new looks. A city that looks harsh and scarred has a personality
which is hard and enjoys scarring others.
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